Motorcycles, or motorbikes as they're often called depending on your location relative to the Atlantic, are highly popular in France. They're favored not only in big cities, where they provide an escape from congested traffic, but also for traversing picturesque country roads. As a result, the nation is quite accustomed to these two-wheeled machines, and there is a considerable degree of respect for bikers.
Nevertheless, as with cars and camper vans, there are a number of laws, regulations, and customs/habits that you need to be aware of when touring France on a motorcycle. Here are a few key points.
NOTE 1: I recommend reviewing the car-related content on this site to familiarize yourself with general laws (such as signage, motorway regulations, etc). You can access this content in a separate window by clicking here.
NOTE 2: I will use the term "motorcycle" as a blanket term for all types of bikes (including scooters, trikes, and sidecars). There are no distinctions made.
The Laws
Here are some specific laws for motorcycles, some of which might seem quite peculiar:
Vintage: Motorcycles manufactured before June 1999 are NOT PERMITTED to operate in Paris. The only exceptions are the Boulevard Peripherique (the Paris ring road) and the two forest areas (Bois de Boulogne and Bois de Vincennes).
Non-compliance carries a fine of €68.Motorways: If you intend to travel on the motorways (known as 'autoroutes' in French), your motorcycle must have an engine capacity greater than 50cc and must be capable of achieving a minimum speed of 80 kph. Motorcycles with 125cc engines are allowed on the motorways.
Bus Lanes: You are NOT allowed to ride in bus lanes.
Penalties: €135Lane Splitting: Also referred to as filtering, lane splitting has been technically illegal but generally tolerated for many years. Now, as part of an experimental change, it's being allowed in 11 "departements" (similar to states) in France. These include Paris, Hauts-de-Seine, Seine-St-Denis, Val-de-Marne, Seine-et-Marne, Yvelines, Essonne, Val d’Oise, Rhone, Gironde, and Bouches-du-Rhone. When lane splitting, it's crucial to use common sense, such as not zipping past cars too quickly, maintaining safe distances, etc.
Penalties: For not maintaining a safe distance, you can be fined €135 and lose 3 points on your license, and the same penalties apply for changing lanes without using indicators. In the other "departements", you can face these penalties for filtering, although enforcement is quite rare.
Alcohol: Much like with cars, the rules regarding alcohol consumption are quite strict. Fines for blood alcohol levels between 0.5 and 0.8 mg/ml are set at €135, in addition to the loss of 6 license points. If you're caught driving with an alcohol level exceeding 0.8 mg, you'll be fined €4500 and lose 6 license points. That's roughly the equivalent of one drink! Exceed that and you could be in serious trouble.
Towing a Trailer: Towing a trailer with your motorcycle can be quite complex due to numerous legal considerations, not to mention potential issues with manufacturer warranties and insurance. In France, as well as most of Europe, the general rule is that your trailer's weight can only be up to 50% of your motorcycle's DRY weight! So, if your motorcycle's dry weight is 100kg, the trailer you're towing can only weigh up to 50kg when fully loaded. If the trailer's weight exceeds 750kgs, it must have its own braking system.
Mandatory Equipment
Here's a list of items you must have either with you or on your motorcycle:
Crit'Air Sticker: If you plan on riding through any of the increasingly numerous cities that observe anti-pollution days, a Crit'Air (clean air) sticker is mandatory. The sticker is color-coded and numbered, and on days of heavy pollution in these cities, only vehicles with a number lower than the announced threshold are permitted to enter.
Click here to learn more about the Crit'Air rules on our site.Helmet: Both the rider and any passengers must wear helmets that are approved by the European Union (with a CE label).
Penalties: If you fail to wear a helmet, or if the helmet is not CE approved, you can be fined €135 and lose 3 points from your license. The fine can potentially rise to as much as €750.Helmet Reflector Stickers: Helmets are required to have approved reflector stickers placed in specific locations. Four stickers (on the top front, sides, and rear) are needed for jet or open-face helmets, while five stickers (including one on the chin) are required for modular or full-face helmets.
The stickers must be approved (they're available on Amazon US and Amazon UK).
Gloves: Both the rider and any passengers are required to wear gloves that have been approved by the European Union (bearing a CE label). Even if you own gloves that were purchased several years ago and do not have an approved label, you could still face a fine!
TIP: If you find the label annoying and decide to remove it, be sure to keep your purchase receipt with you, which should specify that the gloves are CE approved.
High-Visibility Vest: In France, you are required to have at least one high-visibility vest with you. It must be approved, in either yellow or orange color, BUT, you are not required to wear it while riding. However, if your bike breaks down on the road, you need to activate your hazard lights and put on the high-visibility vest.
Penalties: If you're stopped and you don't have a vest with you, the fine is €11. If your bike has broken down and you're not wearing one, the fine increases to €135.
Driving License: Your driving license, including foreign licenses, must be valid and authorized for riding a motorcycle, taking into account any restrictions based on power, engine size, or other applicable regulations in your country. In other words, if your license is valid in your home country, it is generally considered valid in France as well, with the exception of the age requirement. If you are under 18 years old and allowed to hold a license in your country, you are not permitted to ride legally in France.
Penalties: If you fail to carry your license with you while riding, the fine is €75.
Registration Papers: It is necessary to carry your motorcycle's registration papers with you while riding.
Penalties: If you fail to have the registration papers in your possession, the penalty is €75.
Insurance: It is essential to provide evidence that your motorcycle is adequately insured.
Penalties: If you are unable to provide proof of insurance, the penalty is €135. If you are found to be riding without insurance, you may face a fine of €3750, your motorcycle may be impounded, and there is a possibility of losing your driving license.
Breathalyzer(s): According to the law, you are required to have at least one breathalyzer with you while riding. However, if you don't have one, you will not be fined. It may seem strange, but that's the reality.
Parking
Parking your motorcycle in France used to be a breeze. Simply place it on the sidewalk, and you're good to go. However, those days are gone. Now, motorcycles must be parked in designated motorcycle parking areas. While there are currently no fees for parking motorcycles, it is expected that this will change in the future.
When parking your motorcycle in France, it is important to avoid the following areas:
1. Sidewalks, especially if you obstruct pedestrians.
2. Spaces designated for special vehicles, such as handicapped parking spots.
3. Areas that obstruct the movement of other vehicles.
4. Bridges, tunnels, and flyovers.
5. Emergency lanes.
6. Pedestrian walkways.
Penalties for parking in these prohibited areas can result in a fine of €35 and may even lead to the impoundment of your motorcycle.
Motorcycles and Children
Children under the age of 5 must be secured in specially adapted seats with restraint systems when riding on a motorcycle. It is also the responsibility of the rider to ensure that the child's legs cannot go between the bike and the wheel. Additionally, children must wear a CE-approved helmet and gloves for their safety.
For older children, if their feet cannot reach the passenger foot pegs, they will require a special seat to ensure their comfort and safety during the ride.
Animals
Transporting animals on a motorcycle is subject to fewer regulations, but it is crucial to exercise common sense. If you choose to transport an animal, ensure that it cannot escape and, most importantly, that it does not interfere with your ability to ride safely.
Habits/Customs
There are certain habits and practices observed among motorcycle riders, both among fellow bikers and in interactions with car drivers.
Biker and Car Drivers
When riding in a traffic jam or approaching a car on a country lane, it is often likely that the car will make way for you. Some drivers may even use their indicators to signal that they have noticed you and are making space for you to pass.
On motorways, particularly in the leftmost lane, cars will often shift to the left, creating a gap for you to pass between the leftmost and center lanes.
On single-lane country roads, cars typically move to the right, allowing you to pass between the car and oncoming traffic.
In both scenarios, it is customary for motorcyclists to extend their foot as a gesture of gratitude towards car drivers who have made an effort to let them pass. On the motorway, it is typical to extend the left foot as a sign of appreciation (unless a car has made way on the right or center lane, in which case the right foot is extended). On country roads, the right foot is typically extended.
While waving is a friendly gesture, it is important to prioritize safety. Car drivers understand the risks involved in taking their hands off the steering wheel, so extending the foot is often the preferred expression of gratitude.
TIP: If a car driver on the motorway activates their left indicator, it is generally a signal for you to overtake them. It is advisable not to linger behind the car for too long, as failing to pass promptly may result in an uncomfortably close encounter with the car's rear bumper.
Between Bikers
When traveling in congested traffic, especially on motorways or busy ring-roads, it's important to consistently check your rearview mirrors as there may be motorcycles approaching at a faster pace. Whenever you have the opportunity, make way for them by moving aside.
As a tip, you can extend your foot to indicate that you are allowing the biker to pass in the "lane" created by your foot.Bikers Saying Hi: It is common for bikers to exchange greetings while on the road, often with a friendly wave or nod of acknowledgement.
Waves: In urban areas and on non-motorway roads, it is customary to wave to oncoming motorcycles, including scooters. However, in busy city environments where there are many bikers, a simple nod of recognition will suffice (it's rare to wave upcoming motorcycles on the motorway since your hand can be blown away because of the speed).
When approaching a motorcycle on the motorway, it is generally advisable not to immediately overtake. Doing so may be interpreted as a challenge or aggressive behavior. Instead, wait for a few seconds to assess the situation. If the other biker signals that it's safe to pass, you can proceed. However, if no signal is given after a reasonable amount of time, you can proceed to pass slowly and cautiously. It's important to exercise patience and maintain a respectful approach when sharing the road with fellow bikers.
Breakdowns: While it is becoming less common, it is generally considered a courteous practice to stop and offer assistance when you come across a motorcycle that has broken down along the road.
Riding in Paris
Riding your motorcycle in Paris is a unique experience compared to anywhere else in France. The city is known for its bustling streets and a significant number of stressed-out Parisian car drivers. However, as a motorcyclist, you can navigate through the city with relative ease on most roads, except for two areas that require extra caution:
1. Etoile/Place Charles de Gaulle
Navigating this immense roundabout can be perilous even in the best of times, but during rush hour, it becomes even more challenging. Like most roundabouts in France, you have the right of way over vehicles entering from the left. My advice is to ignore what's happening on your left and focus your attention on the vehicles approaching from your right. The majority of drivers, around 99%, follow the same pattern. However, it's the remaining 1%, often foreigners unfamiliar with the rules, who pose a potential danger.
To further complicate matters, it's important to note that there are no designated lanes within the roundabout, adding an extra layer of complexity to your navigation.
2. Boulevard Peripherique (BP)
The Paris ring road the Peripherique, also known as the "Periph," spans 35 km in length. The typical speed limit on this road is 70 kph, and there are multiple speed cameras positioned along its route. Under normal conditions, without traffic congestion, it takes about 30 minutes to ride around the entire ring road.
During rush hour, motorcycles often ride between the left and center lanes (although due to increased motorcycle traffic, some may filter in other lanes, which can be more dangerous). Most cars will make way for motorcycles in between the lanes, and it is customary to express gratitude to them.
However, outside of rush hour, particularly after midnight, traffic on the Periph can be fast-moving, requiring heightened attention. It is worth noting that young drivers from the suburbs often drive recklessly between speed cameras, engaging in races with one another.
IMPORTANT: The Periph is not classified as a motorway, despite having multiple lanes at times. Consequently, normal rules of the road apply, including the fact that vehicles entering the road have priority (since they approach from the right, similar to entering any regular road). Therefore, if you are in the rightmost lane, you must yield to traffic entering the Periph.
The Peripherique is divided into two directions: "Peripherique Interieur" (inner ring), which follows a clockwise direction, and "Peripherique Exterieur" (outer ring), which travels counterclockwise.
In certain sections of the Periph, the direction is sometimes referred to by location. For instance, in the southern part of the ring road, the "Interieur" is referred to as the Périphérique Ouest (Western Ring) because the traffic flows westbound. Conversely, the "Exterieur" is called the Périphérique Est (Eastern Ring) as traffic moves eastbound. In the northern part of the Periph, these directions are reversed.
Tips
During major motorcycle races such as MotoGP, SuperBike, Bol D'Or, Enduropale, and others, the French Federation of Angry Bikers (FFMC) sets up convenient rest stops called "Relais Calmos" along the route where most motorcyclists will pass.
These designated areas provide bikers with an opportunity to take a break, have refreshments, and enjoy a meal. Additionally, you can expect to find various technical facilities available, including air compressors, fuel stations, and mechanics. To locate these rest stops, simply keep an eye out for the "Relais Calmos" signs along the motorways.
TIP: Typically, during the weekend of a major motorcycle event, motorcycles enjoy toll-free access on certain motorways. However, it is important to check in advance to determine which specific motorways are included. You can visit the FFMC (French Federation) website by clicking here, where they announce the designated motorways and provide information about the Relais Calmos. Please note that the website is in French.
Potholes: While the majority of motorways and even "N" roads in France are generally well-maintained and in good condition, the same cannot be said for "D" roads and especially "C" roads. These smaller and more rural roads are prone to numerous potholes. While it is the responsibility of local communities to maintain these roads, the reality is that limited funding often hampers their ability to do so effectively. Wealthier communities typically have better-maintained roads, but as you venture into poorer regions, it becomes crucial to exercise caution and be vigilant due to the increased presence of potholes.
Speeding: In the past, France was often regarded as a paradise for bikers who enjoyed pushing the limits of speed. Exceeding the speed limit by a significant margin was often overlooked, with lenient attitudes from both police officers and motorcycle cops who shared a passion for biking in their personal lives.
However, times have changed, and the leniency of the past is no longer the norm. France has implemented highly advanced and intelligent speed cameras that can be found in various locations, and the police have been instructed to pay closer attention to bikers.
It is important to note that many foreign bikers have faced consequences, including losing their licenses and motorcycles, due to speeding offenses. Even if you are a foreigner, going just 30 kph over the speed limit can result in severe penalties enforced by the police. It is crucial to adhere to speed limits and ride responsibly to avoid any legal repercussions, regardless of your nationality.
Barriers: Despite the persistent efforts, protests, and safety advocacy by the French Federation of Angry Bikers (FFMC), the French government has been slow to take significant action in improving the safety of crash barriers for motorcycle riders.
Traditional crash barriers were primarily designed to halt cars and typically have a gap at the bottom, allowing a motorcyclist to pass through if sliding along the ground after a crash. Unfortunately, the consequences of such barriers can be dire for motorcyclists. In the best-case scenario, the rider may be propelled over the edge or collide with a tree, while the worst-case outcome can result in decapitation, as tragically observed on several occasions.
It is essential for motorcyclists to exercise caution and remain vigilant when riding near crash barriers, considering the potential risks involved. The call for improved safety measures continues, urging both the government and riders to prioritize the development of safer barrier designs.
Theft: As in many countries, motorcycle thefts are unfortunately prevalent in France. Thieves continuously devise innovative methods to steal motorcycles, so it is crucial to remain vigilant and take necessary precautions. Even if you need to briefly leave your bike unattended, such as when popping into a bakery to buy a baguette, always ensure to lock your bike securely.
Keep in mind that insurance claims may be denied if your bike is stolen and you have not taken proper security measures, such as using a lock. It is essential to take responsibility for the security of your motorcycle to avoid potential financial losses in case of theft.